tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-47049199591924201972024-03-19T05:58:59.957-07:00 seakayakadventures.co.ukMartin Rickardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15761851870326720245noreply@blogger.comBlogger47125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4704919959192420197.post-39648469094069821512021-11-10T08:39:00.009-08:002021-11-14T06:46:57.569-08:00Visit Gino Watkins Base Camps 13th - 22nd July 2022
In collaboration with a very experienced local guide, I have put together an extremely unique 12 day trip for the summer of 2022.
The objective is to visit both of the Gino Watkins base camps.
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Camp at each and fully explore.
Also access the inland ice in the vicinity where Watkins and his team would have accessed with a potential overnight bivi.
The trip will visit many sites documented in the various Watkins / Chapman books and explore others too.
You will be traveling and living with local people and my guide.
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On this expedition access is by hunters boat - not kayaks.
English speaking local hunters / guides will facilitate the expedition - taking care of boat logistics, safety and any bear defense issues.
One of my Watkins expert’s - who has kayaked with me in and out of both expedition sites will be with you for the duration of the expedition.
You will be journeying approx 400 miles, through some amazing area’s and transit spectacular sections of coast - all the time surrounded by ice bergs, sea ice and the ever present Greenland icecap.
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Boat pick ups and return to airport.
Tents. Cooking gear. Food, stoves and local accommodation when scheduled in settlements or hunters cabins is all provided.
This is a fantastic opportunity to immerse yourself in and experience the unique culture and history of a remote part of Greenland, where subsistence hunting and the changing seasons dictate the way of life.
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There are only 4 places available on each trip.
Dates to be confirmed. July and August 2022
£ 4800 - this is not including flights.
Full details on request.Martin Rickardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15761851870326720245noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4704919959192420197.post-66810601451818482292019-11-29T05:52:00.000-08:002019-11-29T07:31:15.712-08:002021 Advanced trip "The Watkins Trail".<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgP2ZOmtU7hHjc9b5bxs2fmk077-dBy0trc8dYNTlvPUJfwNYeiN20-3lodDLRaaKbbqOmWbpW9gJg9tIYgOL37pHzxZfB6HpYsCGhe8lzmlewNwseoma5fbFpQnUWqSWJ85b1lwQ591wOX/s1600/rgtgh+%25282%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgP2ZOmtU7hHjc9b5bxs2fmk077-dBy0trc8dYNTlvPUJfwNYeiN20-3lodDLRaaKbbqOmWbpW9gJg9tIYgOL37pHzxZfB6HpYsCGhe8lzmlewNwseoma5fbFpQnUWqSWJ85b1lwQ591wOX/s640/rgtgh+%25282%2529.jpg" width="640" height="296" data-original-width="1355" data-original-height="626" /></a></div><br />
In 2021 I will be leading a small expedition, south down the coast past Sermilik fjord. <br />
This trip will initially aim for Natavit and explore the site of the original British Arctic Air Route Expedition base.<br />
During the trip we would hope to get up onto the ice cap with an over night bivi.<br />
The final paddling route selection will be made at the time based on ice conditions.<br />
This is an advanced trip, aimed at experienced expedition paddlers.<br />
Stoves, fuel, breakfasts and freeze dried main meals while on trip are provided. <br />
Kayaks, paddles, decks and PFD's will be supplied.<br />
Boat shuttles and transport in Greenland is included.<br />
Bear defence and group safety gear is provided.<br />
Specific training will be delivered during the expedition. <br />
<br />
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Expedition fee does not include your flights.<br />
<br />
1 / 3 ratio.<br />
<br />
Send applications with full paddling / expedition CV to <br />
info@seakayakadventures.co.uk <br />
<br />
Expedition fee (TBC) <br />
£ 3800.00Martin Rickardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15761851870326720245noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4704919959192420197.post-56752243211007329492019-10-27T10:14:00.000-07:002019-10-27T10:17:26.899-07:00New for 2020 - A Walk on the Wild Side.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiGN_9mJ5cSo4aW4I6wADilZ4DdewtBKW1-fxSaZWFnJjmRzzUhc63x9qUFvmu5V9g8-Rl2Px31j8umszTkoWEP5ymlA_MHK8jTR-5rMy9PoxeIjt5UMAWIvxN4kG-cpvjPLSz-kpDvzcd/s1600/P1020297.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiGN_9mJ5cSo4aW4I6wADilZ4DdewtBKW1-fxSaZWFnJjmRzzUhc63x9qUFvmu5V9g8-Rl2Px31j8umszTkoWEP5ymlA_MHK8jTR-5rMy9PoxeIjt5UMAWIvxN4kG-cpvjPLSz-kpDvzcd/s320/P1020297.JPG" width="320" height="240" data-original-width="1600" data-original-height="1200" /></a></div><br />
For folk who are not dedicated paddlers, we are developing an amazing hiking trip. <br />
It will utilise all my reliable contacts for boat drop off's and pick ups, emergency support and logistics - so you can access some truly amazing terrain. <br />
The initial exped in June 2020 is aimed at a small group of experienced hikers / back packers who are keen to get off the beaten track.<br />
In fact there is no track.<br />
This is a pilot project for future teams and is consequently priced accordingly, rest assured we have it pretty well sussed and you will be in the competent hands of an experienced trip leader.<br />
The route will aim to explore the wildest and remotest parts of Sermilik Fjord (the local ice fjord) and should provide amazing photographic opportunities of icebergs, glaciers, Alpine style peaks and local wildlife.<br />
Its a full on 8 day trip, but a local settlement will be visited to experience the Greenlandic way of life and hunting culture as well as giving you the chance to resupply. <br />
Having said this, the team will need to arrive with their own freeze dried / dehydrated food ready for the duration.<br />
Team members will need to bring their own personal equipment (list provided), tents, sleeping bags etc - however if required petrol stoves can be provided. Fuel and maps are provided!<br />
The route is hard but manageable, with several options to allow for conditions at the time, requiring a lightweight / minimalist style approach for this fantastic "walk on the wild side".<br />
<br />
<b>DATES 23rd June - 2nd July</b><br />
Trip fly's into Kulusuk from Iceland on the 23rd June. <br />
Folk are then taken by hunters boat to the start point. <br />
A boat shuttle returns everyone to the airport at the end of the trip for their homeward journey on the 2nd July. <br />
<br />
<b>Flights to Greenland are not included - budget for about £760 from Iceland and participants need to provide their own travel and medical insurance.<br />
2020 Discounted Trip Fee<br />
£930 <br />
<br />
Please contact me for further information</b> <br />
<br />
Martin Rickardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15761851870326720245noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4704919959192420197.post-87791518148740079842019-04-13T10:01:00.002-07:002019-04-13T10:30:03.581-07:00Why is it ....<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEia7NJfkyNRHj1q3O1jYh4qC4mTopGcZ8x6GUW9YoSRXUeCSPATgmiHJhCB4i1m8ZJOPIbQ9K6Ic0d8rbqDVkDNuWIqnl76p6uu4sdJKxI_W-SxvA8cUxvGQAyYKGeDnF5guQQ_IU9jFuyJ/s1600/0118.2.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEia7NJfkyNRHj1q3O1jYh4qC4mTopGcZ8x6GUW9YoSRXUeCSPATgmiHJhCB4i1m8ZJOPIbQ9K6Ic0d8rbqDVkDNuWIqnl76p6uu4sdJKxI_W-SxvA8cUxvGQAyYKGeDnF5guQQ_IU9jFuyJ/s400/0118.2.JPG" width="400" height="300" data-original-width="1600" data-original-height="1200" /></a></div><br />
<br />
This picture was taken a few years ago, during a trip from Ittoqqortoormiit (Scoresbysund) to Angmagssalik.<br />
At this point we had crossed the entrance of Scoresby Sound and were about 300 miles into the trip, so about half way from Ittoqqortoormiit.<br />
Sat in our kayaks, NDK HV Explorers, which we had finished fitting out ourselves and then shipped out from Nigels the year before.<br />
Here we are looking onto the completely uninhabited Blosseville Coast.<br />
The most amazing thing, other than the fact that in all probability no one had even landed here, let alone walked up those valleys and climbed any of the peaks - was that most likely we were the only people within a 300 mile radius. No one behind or in front of us - Iceland was 300 miles away and the west coast of Greenland a similar distance. <br />
Quite a unique situation really. <br />
A couple of days later while at sea we had our first Bear encounter, he was swimming along in the sea ice hunting seals and our paths crossed. A truly amazing experience, uneventful for the bear, although still very unforgettable for us. <br />
<br />
And people often ask - why is it you enjoy kayaking in Greenland so much........Martin Rickardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15761851870326720245noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4704919959192420197.post-91334610531048646762019-04-13T08:53:00.000-07:002019-04-13T09:25:27.699-07:00NDK Explorer - my old faithful <br />
<br />
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<br />
I just cant believe how well my old NDK Explorer has done over the years. <br />
It was made way, way back in another time by Mike Webb, when the small factory was next to the "Paddlers Return", for an exercise with the Holyhead Life Boat. It wasn't expected to survive that!<br />
I then got hold of it and after a bit of TLC used it for many years as a fleet boat.<br />
As it was never expected to last its original mission it never had a skeg fitted (not worth the labour and extra expense), so was a challenge for some folk to use.<br />
However in 2008 I shipped it out and added it to my growing fleet of kayaks in Tasiilaq, East Greenland. Since then it has been used every summer - as my guide boat, as without a skeg its so easy to pack and has quite a bit of extra space, and with no skeg it is less prone to damage and potential leak spots.<br />
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Admittedly it has undergone some repairs, but nothing too major, keel strips every few seasons keep it solid, strong and bone dry. <br />
The hardest thing was fitting a new cockpit rim a few years ago, I had a lesson at the factory in Holyhead and was supplied the correct stuff to mix up when I got out to Greenland. <br />
However as expected, this was a particularly unpleasant task to be doing outside my storage container in the heat, dust and mosquitoes.<br />
Ironically, two days later this great repair job got damaged, when an new and over enthusiastic helicopter pilot at the pad in Tasiilaq managed to lift the empty kayak up and blow it over a small cliff. I fixed it, but it was a shame.<br />
Folk say every scratch tells a story or reminds you of a memorable moment, well there are too many stickers on mine (they make great cover ups for repairs) to remember them all, that's for sure.<br />
<br />
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I can say though, that after an early hard life, and then a re birth to the sea ice of East Greenland, she is still going strong. <br />
Now with well over 5500 Arctic miles under her hull she is still fit for purpose in this pretty demanding environment. <br />
Always paddled fully loaded and always braking trail when the sea ice gets thick.<br />
Like many old girls - she has put on a bit of weight here and there, but that's fibre glass for you.<br />
Still a looker though, much loved and admired by many.<br />
One things for sure - she will outlast me.<br />
<br />
If any suitably experienced kayakers fancy a trip of a life time - then there are still a couple of seats, in less used and equally attractive kayaks, available on one of my guided expeditions this summer.<br />
<br />
Top tip - seal blubber, removes all signs of scratches on a Navy Blue hull. <br />
Happy Paddling...Martin Rickardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15761851870326720245noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4704919959192420197.post-58648337095051186312019-03-17T06:59:00.000-07:002019-03-28T09:46:45.732-07:00Geoff Murray writes....Geoff Murray from Tasmania writes...<br />
<br />
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<br />
I first paddled with Martin back in 2012. <br />
I was immediately impressed with not only his relaxed manner and obvious competence but also the quality of the kayaks he supplies. <br />
Most tour companies that operate on the churn principle supply lesser quality plastic kayaks that "just" do the job. <br />
Martin's are the sort of kayaks you would buy for yourself. In fact, the kayak I paddle when I am on one of his trips is the same make and model as one of my own in Tasmania,a Rockpool GT. During the trip, discussion of plans and aims is inclusive and friendly while at the same time you know there is a competent mind in the background considering all aspects of the trip from the point of view of safety, to individual paddler's abilities, the need to resupply and ultimately to providing the team with the best trip possible. <br />
So far I have paddled in East Greenland 3 times for a total of around 900kms. Two of the trips were with Martin and one was a specific solo photographic trip, for which Martin supplied me with kayak (Rockpool Menai 18) and logistical support. I imagine there are other places as good as East Greenland but I haven't found them yet. <br />
I have visited West Greenland which doesn't offer the raw feel of the East. If you want adventure, go East! On my second expedition Martin guided a small team to Lake Fjord, which was where Gino Watkins died in 1932, a truly fascinating place. <br />
<br />
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https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/British_Arctic_Air_Route_Expedition <br />
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I have also paddled 300kms along the Antarctic Peninsula on a recent expedition camping on ice along the way. This expedition was inspired having read about John Rymill who was one of Gino Watkins expedition members in the 30's. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/John_Rymill <br />
Certainly an excellent trip but for me East Greenland is better. Antarctica is unbelievably committing with kilometre after kilometre of ice cliffs, really unpredictable weather and very few sheltered campsites. Overall, a very dangerous place to paddle. Plus in no way could the accessible and regularly visited part of the Antarctic Peninsula be called wild and remote. It is normal to see cruise ships, zodiacs and yachts every day. Remember, 30,000 people a year visit Antarctica in a 3 month window. You don't have to go far in East Greenland to escape all of that. Antarctica lacks the unique, captivating culture and social history of the East Greenland Inuit. A friendly and charming race of people. It is also logistically far easier to get to East Greenland compared to going to Antarctica. And cheaper! <br />
I will definitely be returning to East Greenland, and I will travel with Martin.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1sXqDSnujfN007jRc0BmqrVSf-zudbZCkU95LOKxQGDK7YiCLf3zfS3_q2vHYbYfp7tvLMMzl5I9n5mva7_eEFSZExVARwg_MxY4qregXfnymXf5GJxgKyh9PQ1nzTpa5PYdodHZQ4MG6/s1600/_DSC0938.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1sXqDSnujfN007jRc0BmqrVSf-zudbZCkU95LOKxQGDK7YiCLf3zfS3_q2vHYbYfp7tvLMMzl5I9n5mva7_eEFSZExVARwg_MxY4qregXfnymXf5GJxgKyh9PQ1nzTpa5PYdodHZQ4MG6/s400/_DSC0938.jpg" width="400" height="215" data-original-width="1600" data-original-height="861" /></a></div>Martin Rickardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15761851870326720245noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4704919959192420197.post-25338916970624233492019-03-09T09:17:00.000-08:002019-03-16T06:59:36.531-07:00Not long now - I can't wait !<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOmarhp6xB-vfyr77E39obhKcI7Db-xpSyLMXYxmbYM2kU8AQHUfR8z9W5rIl6yNosmh2QcdnhRVhS82b6WRT5kheHQERdtWC0TfqmIclKqj2O3kDx6F8Aiq_sGdzxXQsS98pb17KXFPKl/s1600/lunch+stop.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOmarhp6xB-vfyr77E39obhKcI7Db-xpSyLMXYxmbYM2kU8AQHUfR8z9W5rIl6yNosmh2QcdnhRVhS82b6WRT5kheHQERdtWC0TfqmIclKqj2O3kDx6F8Aiq_sGdzxXQsS98pb17KXFPKl/s320/lunch+stop.jpg" width="320" height="240" data-original-width="1600" data-original-height="1200" /></a></div><br />
Not long now......<br />
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Spring is nearly here in Shetland, on some days at least, and the evenings are starting to get much lighter so the paddling season is now well underway. However the past dark months were an ideal and busy time to be gearing up for our summer in East Greenland. Flights, accommodation and logistics are now sorted and team members are focusing on their kayak and general fitness, equipment lists and packing systems. <br />
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I own a comprehensive fleet of quality UK kayaks and equipment, which is permanently kept in Tasiilaq, so folk can often paddle the same boat they are familiar with at home, so this helps when it comes to working out if everything will go in. <br />
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Always an option, some folk are staying on a bit longer after their expedition dates with me to further explore this amazing area and do some dedicated hiking, while others are teaming up with family or friends to explore Iceland a bit, on the way back home from Greenland.<br />
This season sees a multinational group of folk making up the teams, paddlers from America, Australia, Switzerland, Germany, Norway and the UK, we have good teams (as always) going out this season. <br />
Greenland is now becoming a popular place for kayakers and is getting busier every season. <br />
However the Angmagssalik region of the east coast where my expeditions are based, with only one flight from Iceland a day, is in comparison less accessible and consequently quieter. I have been running guided trips on the east coast every summer for the past 12 years and have seen little significant change. <br />
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There are only two access points for the east coast - Kulusuk and Constable Point so traffic is not excessive. The main settlement of Tasiilaq (via Kulusuk) is on Angmagssalik Island and was at one time called Angmagssalik. Here the local ‘commune’ or town council administer an area the size of the UK with a population of approx 2500 people – many of which are seasonal contractors, involved in building and infrastructure projects. In fact the total population of Greenland is only 56,000 – with the remaining 53,000+ living on the south and west coasts.<br />
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Consequently, once out on expedition we are pretty much on our own and apart from local seal hunters we don’t see many other people. Over the past 19 years I have developed some good local contacts who are able to provide back up services. So should anyone have a medical issue and need to be evacuated to the modern local hospital, then that base is covered. If conditions dictate, then checking in with these folk every few days by satellite phone gives me a heads up as to what the local ice is doing and enables our journey to make the best of the conditions. This also gives us added options enabling our trip to venture further afield to lesser known areas and gives added flexibility as to where expeditions start and finish. <br />
Having spent so much time in this area I obviously now know it extremely well, certainly my current trips are much improved on the ones I ran in the early days, generally being more adventurous, flexible, interactive and safer. <br />
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Ice conditions on the east coast are very different from the south and west side, as the main polar drift flows south down the east coast from the Arctic Ocean.Conditions can at times be unpredictable and challenging (Fun), however that’s why folk join me – to paddle amongst sea ice and ice bergs. Over the years the word has got round and I now regularly get folk joining my trips from New Zealand, Tasmania and Australia as it’s much easier, cheaper and safer than venturing to the Antarctic to paddle in ice. I also get many folk joining me having first paddled on the west coast. <br />
Although no as bad as some, my trips are still expensive,so a good lead in time is advisable. I obviously don’t skimp on service or safety, the kayaks and equipment are my own. They are good quality and well maintained and I know the history of every bit of kit. During the lead up phase as well as on trip I try to give folk options and advice and allow them to make decisions and have control - its important folk feel it's their trip, with me along in the background to guide and support and step in when appropriate or the conditions dictate. As a result my trip dates fill up quick and I don’t really advertise, also I get many repeat bookings which say’s a lot. <br />
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East Greenland doesn’t take prisoners, so don’t get caught out. Every expedition is run by myself, and I am always supported by at least one back up leader who is capable of taking over should the need arise. They know the area, ice conditions, weather anomalies and my systems well, having been out to this area with me several times before. Team members are introduced to my way of working and taught how to read and negotiate ice and ice bergs, as well as transferring their existing navigation skills to our 1:250000 scale maps, route planning, identifying camp sites, get outs and plan B's. <br />
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Some time back I wrote the ISKGA Paddling in Ice Module. This along with BC guide modules are covered during the expedition and certificates are available for interested parties. Hazard and Risk and ‘expedition mind sets’ are looked at in depth, all with the aim to help further develop your existing skills and provide knowledge for future unsupported trips to this area on your own. <br />
The Arctic is a fragile and delicate area, slow to recover from neglect, abuse or over use. <br />
Throughout the expedition we implement a minimal impact and sustainable approach towards our journeying.<br />
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So – if this sounds like the sort of thing you may be interested in, an truly amazing kayak adventure, in the Arctic, paddling amongst the sea ice, negotiating icebergs, encountering whales and wild camping amongst fantastic wilderness scenery. Then why not contact me for further details info@seakayakadventures.co.uk<br />
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Martin Rickardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15761851870326720245noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4704919959192420197.post-81182255748737057962019-01-06T12:58:00.001-08:002019-01-08T11:28:18.747-08:00Scoresbysund / Film Project.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaCSEytMLwuzN4bSFauXn4SJ555iAJ-17kDxurOojy4DTqgpifFhnzMqYEBN4oHL9UQYO26qAk3hH-o_UndMLq3eDihMly_ghbRQVItcUKIkQlFzI9Y43sVfZrzOEz9jxVrjyQW_0Hsfqo/s1600/P1000357.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaCSEytMLwuzN4bSFauXn4SJ555iAJ-17kDxurOojy4DTqgpifFhnzMqYEBN4oHL9UQYO26qAk3hH-o_UndMLq3eDihMly_ghbRQVItcUKIkQlFzI9Y43sVfZrzOEz9jxVrjyQW_0Hsfqo/s320/P1000357.JPG" width="320" height="240" data-original-width="1600" data-original-height="1200" /></a></div><br />
Last May I was approached by Paul Walker, who runs Tangent Expeditions.<br />
Paul was facilitating logistical support for a film crew, who were planning a six week project in Scoresbysund.<br />
The aim was to produce a two part Mountaineering and Kayaking documentary, highlighting the effects of climate change and its impact on the hunting community of Ittoqqortoormiit.<br />
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I had kayaked extensively in this area before, so to cut quite a long story short, I ended up on the team as kayak guide / safety adviser for the paddling section of the documentary, this meant I would be out in Ittaqqortoormiit for about 3 weeks in June. <br />
Just enough time before returning to the UK for a week and then heading back out to Angmagssalik to lead my guided expeds in July and August.<br />
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It was all very last minute, apparently this is not uncommon with film projects, and it was a bit of a rush to procure all the kit.<br />
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The project required reliable expedition sea kayaks. I obviously recommended NDK HV Explorers, as I knew from numerous expeditions, that they would carry the kit and stand up to the abuse both a film crew and the sea ice would inflict on them. Being fibre glass we would at least be able to repair them should in the unlikely event they sustain catastrophic injury. <br />
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A couple of my pals (Nick and Alistair) collected the four Explorers and a selection of Celtic paddles from Nigel's factory in Holyhead and delivered them, along with kit from Reedchillcheater and Steve Wetman, at the docks in Immingham. From here they were shipped to Iceland and taken overland by truck to Akureyri.<br />
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So far so good, they now had to go into a "Twin Otter" for a special flight out to Constable Point on the east coast of Greenland. I was always told to measure twice / cut once. I think on this occasion both kayaks and the plane were measured a dozen times. With the seats out and some packaging removed they just fitted, with only an inch or so to spare.<br />
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The next challenge was to get them out to the settlement slung under a helicopter.<br />
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After a bit of faffing, over concerns that they would be too light and hence swing all over the place and cause issues for the pilot, they were weighted down with the expeditions Zodiac outboard - success.<br />
This was a first for me, not sure how many Explorers have been transported to the start of an expedition as a sling load.<br />
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The next few days were spent, like on any other expedition, faffing with kit. <br />
The film crew were using a couple of hunters boats as a floating platform and Matt, one of Pauls instructors, was also running the Tangent Zodiac. Boats, equipment and film gear all needed prepping and loading. <br />
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The only snag at this stage, being June, was there was no water to paddle in. To be fare it had been pretty perfect as we flew in, however the pack ice had been pushed into the fjord, blocking any chance of an early get away.<br />
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While the main team filmed in and around the community, I got the chance to accompany (as his gun man) one of the camera men who was trying to get footage of Polar Bears. We had a great sled ride out to the mouth of the fjord where the pack ice was likely to be hiding bears hunting for seal.<br />
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It was in this area in July 2006, that Phil Clegg, Pete Jones and I waited 9 days for the ice to clear for our crossing of Scoresbysund on our attempt to paddle 700 miles down to Angmagssalik. We had a couple of attempts at the crossing before safely getting over and while waiting had a bear walk right past our tent in the night. That particular expedition in 2006 was unsuccessful. We got half way, but after many protracted delays caused by sea ice, had to return the way we had come - None the less it was a fantastic adventure and was the start of my guided trips.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdyThKCxIWY-QMOZ3cBHnOKEdV7bzndj3uCyz34BU0duBolwsy0uzKOgmmieeGfCRsVnnPiVTmoj_d3AsQZ2FIGqHeQzWWm79UGNJsKeBn5Ulu3-16bXEVuWZcpkOQHgsP-sQ47d6-t-vQ/s1600/Phil+Greenland+347.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdyThKCxIWY-QMOZ3cBHnOKEdV7bzndj3uCyz34BU0duBolwsy0uzKOgmmieeGfCRsVnnPiVTmoj_d3AsQZ2FIGqHeQzWWm79UGNJsKeBn5Ulu3-16bXEVuWZcpkOQHgsP-sQ47d6-t-vQ/s320/Phil+Greenland+347.jpg" width="320" height="240" data-original-width="1600" data-original-height="1200" /></a></div>Martin and Pete 2006.<br />
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Time is money as they say - in this case literally, so in desperation to get off we launched as soon as a shore lead opened up and offered a chance of progressing. It was too thick really to make any sensible progress, however if we could make it across the little bay by the settlement we had a chance of reaching some open water before the local shore lead closed up again. The hunters both had boats with 180 hp Yamaha outboards, capable of pushing through choka ice, so we had a safety net never available on independent / unsupported expeditions.<br />
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A couple of slow days paddle put us on the "James Land" coast. It is basically a shallow beach running for a 100 miles into the top end of Scoresbysund, not too inspiring but there are fantastic views across the fjord. However being shallow the ice runs aground and there is always a gap of open water by the shore.<br />
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The only issue is that at high water the beach often disappears and landing by kayak and getting out on the frozen snow wall is a pain. Obviously in July and August landings in this area would be a doddle. <br />
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The highlight was seeing a polar Bear up close again. During our expedition in 2006 we had had numerous encounters, but then the three of us were on our own, with out any support and miles away from civilisation. Now on day three when a big healthy male bear walked into our camp there were a dozen folk, two of which were experienced local hunters, so we were able to shoo him away with out incident. There is safety in numbers for sure and this is why the expeditions I guide each summer in the Angmassalik area have a total of 8 clients plus 2 guides. A bear is less likely to cause trouble if he is outnumbered. On my trips we also do a waking watch at the campsite. Here we were doing the same, with the added agenda of filming one, rather than let it wander past.<br />
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The encounter with the bear was the footage the crew obviously wanted - I am sure if we had just stood still and made no noise, it would have come very close, as it did and checked us out but then moved off on its intended route - we were just in the way. It was scared off with rocks and flares and swam out to sea unharmed. Prob his only encounter with humans and like most of the crew, their first bear. A very special moment for sure! <br />
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The kayak team reached the ice edge after about 60 miles of paddling. It blocked the route and prevented further progress.<br />
There were several other production options at this stage so this was the end of the kayak phase and my involvement on the water.<br />
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The remainder of my time was spent in helicopters, travelling to film locations, looking for Muskox - I had never seen these stage beasts. <br />
Quite amazing creatures.. <br />
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Checking out routes and laying in stores for phase two of the filming project.<br />
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I have not been at liberty to discuss this project in any detail, so this blog is rather vague. <br />
However it was a great experience, the team were a fantastic bunch and I am sure it will be a very interesting adventure documentary, that covers the important aspects of climate change and how this impacts on the hunting community in this remote part of east Greenland. <br />
Well worth watching - keep an eye out for it.<br />
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Martin Rickardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15761851870326720245noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4704919959192420197.post-4790293605873577752018-12-15T11:26:00.001-08:002019-01-08T11:35:41.609-08:00Arctic Club <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMxuYg6gi9SltYSa0WroJUSgIsB28REy3XvtIYfeVsXgklRJcT2XmGDJeebCkrGtHcGt4Wk2vNTB5k8miXeBXBQSOdxtBqYhHrco1SFj3bdHjH54yUV1LlkUvW8Lt__AtLa6CpVmTx70E5/s1600/AC.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMxuYg6gi9SltYSa0WroJUSgIsB28REy3XvtIYfeVsXgklRJcT2XmGDJeebCkrGtHcGt4Wk2vNTB5k8miXeBXBQSOdxtBqYhHrco1SFj3bdHjH54yUV1LlkUvW8Lt__AtLa6CpVmTx70E5/s320/AC.JPG" width="320" height="238" data-original-width="765" data-original-height="568" /></a></div><br />
I was recently invited to give a short presentation at the Arctic Club annual dinner, Edinburgh. My talk with slides, was based around both of our successful kayak trips in East Greenland to Lake Fjord (2016) and the 1932 British Arctic Air Route Expedition base site at Natavit (2018). It was great that expedition members - James Pigdon, Donna McCready and Sonja Ezergailis (2018) were able to attend and Geoff Murray and John Paschke who were not there, were mentioned in dispatches. During the course of the weekend I was made a Full member of the Arctic Club, having been put forward by Mike Lea from the Gino Watkins Memorial trust. Pleased to say that the presentation was very well received. <br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjeReKp0Luot3nD3KrzesXXSnqL7HhVS1aCMWgC3dYZj4fw0cAF2yGn1X6ox-k64rxGgEpuZxOIDMCtl3xXzjZypoypjujwLUdu6vrsWCg7GiVp27WykBJSdvozFRZA8wWQwhgenE6sZLI/s1600/N1JPG.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjeReKp0Luot3nD3KrzesXXSnqL7HhVS1aCMWgC3dYZj4fw0cAF2yGn1X6ox-k64rxGgEpuZxOIDMCtl3xXzjZypoypjujwLUdu6vrsWCg7GiVp27WykBJSdvozFRZA8wWQwhgenE6sZLI/s320/N1JPG.JPG" width="320" height="149" data-original-width="1282" data-original-height="597" /></a></div>Martin Rickardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15761851870326720245noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4704919959192420197.post-78982245153534148182018-09-22T10:30:00.002-07:002019-01-05T12:19:41.644-08:00Unfinished Business 2018<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOp9uFI-rrxyvT6-_gnlO1NVJIvmUx3xM0KaFd9hbibjITfVcZck0HYcSbDKAVlsBcCneiCaXpDqPKWV-Fg6IyFdzHfYBSGgTBWR8tUvrnCqG7T_qJhHiGnYjzFhO-OMU_uYoH4XYOzKzo/s1600/gryh.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOp9uFI-rrxyvT6-_gnlO1NVJIvmUx3xM0KaFd9hbibjITfVcZck0HYcSbDKAVlsBcCneiCaXpDqPKWV-Fg6IyFdzHfYBSGgTBWR8tUvrnCqG7T_qJhHiGnYjzFhO-OMU_uYoH4XYOzKzo/s320/gryh.JPG" width="320" height="148" data-original-width="1358" data-original-height="628" /></a></div>
Unfinished Business 2018
A sea kayak journey to the BAARE base site at Nativit East Greenland.
I have harped on about Gino Watkins now for many years, however his exploits have been a significant inspiration for me and over the years have inspired several of us to thoroughly explore the Angmassalik region of East Greenland.
Although much of my regular touring area around Tasiilaq was explored and mapped by Watkins team in the 1930’s, there was still one major area for us to visit and explore.
The site of the original “1930 British Arctic Air Route Expedition base”, Which was established south of Angmassalik Island near the old settlement of Nativit.
For a small group of us, this became the focus of a trip this summer.
The team consisted of Sonja and James and Donna who had been with me on my Lake Fjord expedition in 2016.
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The sea ice had moved out from the coast early this year and although this increased the potential of much greater sea swells, effecting exposed headlands, conditions fortunately remained calm and settled.
We all know the Angmassalik area very well, however from Nativit at the west side of Sermilik fjord, we would be on new and unexplored ground.
Nativit was the site of an old Inuit settlement and comprised of over a dozen large turf houses which would each have housed an extended family.
Several of these (probably during the time of Watkins) were remodelled to have a wooden house inside the walled structure. This remote settlement is mentioned in “Northern Lights” (F S Chapman) and we were keen to stop and see if there was anything interesting or recognisable left.
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After what had turned into a rather long day we were pleased to discover a very small (modern day) hunter’s cabin in the channel between Nativit and the outer islands.
Although cramped, this was still a real bonus as it saved us having to do a bear watch that night.
We had, had a bear encounter a few days before (neither party came to any harm) on the west side of Sermilik fjord. Although justifying all our previous night watches it meant bears were definitely in the vicinity.
This area feels extra remote and by now we were on our guard, each of us doing two hour bear watches during the night, which soon becomes exhausting. We were also setting trip lines around our camp at night. James commented that this was the only place he had ever needed to take a gun and a camera with him when venturing off to the toilet.
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While exploring that evening we discovered two substantial wooden posts that had been placed vertically in the ground and about 6 meters apart. Although I can’t be certain, we would strongly suspect these were used as the vertical supports for Inuit rope training / kayak agility training / games.
None of us had ever seen anything similar before, but all agreed due to their location in the settlement that there would have been very little other explanation for their purpose.
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It was also interesting to think that several of the old wooden huts may well have been built using materials scavenged from the BAARE site when Gino and the team abandoned it in 1931. Wood and timber is a valuable commodity in this area, even now, and an empty hut would soon have been re purposed. The atmosphere is very dry and timber takes a long time to rot.
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A late start due to further exploring saw us paddling the final 14 km into the fjord to locate the BAARE base site. The outer coast had been pretty free of ice bergs, however from here on in the fjord was packed with them.
These were some of the largest and most impressive bergs I have ever encountered, and quite why they were here remains a bit of a mystery to us, as conditions and tide didn’t account for their presence.
Dog Island, where Gino tethered his sled dogs before off loading supplies was easy to identify and we landed on the smooth rock slabs where the Quest would have unloaded her cargo in 1930.
After an initial recce, and as we intended base camping for several days, we decided to lug all our kit up to the hut site and establish our camp there.
It was a strange feeling, walking up and down the smooth flat rocks from the kayaks to our camp, thinking of all the times this route would have been trodden in the past. There is a wide uniform band of smooth black rock which is just like a paved path and your eye always goes to it and you end up walking this line, whether you want to or not. I am sure this was also the case in 1930. After all this time we could still see bits of coal that had escaped from a burst or overfull sack and had lain hidden in a rock crevice, unobserved or thought about for over 90 yrs.
That evening we set up our trip line round the tents – if walked through a taught line would pull and activate an audible alarm, this was to give us a heads up, rather than scare any bear away. It’s a simple system I have developed myself and is easy and lightweight to carry in the kayaks.
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The next few days were spent soaking up the atmosphere, everyone pretty much did their own thing, mooching about and looking for artefacts. There is very little left to see, however once you trained your eye in the outline of the hut was very clear.
Donna had brought out her copy of “Northern Lights” and we all got a lot of pleasure from identifying the exact spot from which all the original photos were taken.
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It made us smile when we realised that several of the shots were very staged and taken from the rocks at the landing site. Understandable I suppose given the heavy camera gear they were using at that time. The back drop to these photos is unchanged and was easy to identify.
There was only one good fresh water source and unbeknown to us we had already found it on our paddle from Nativit into Dog Island. Again it was strange to think of folk inevitably walking the same route we did to get drinking water.
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Donna was a real sleuth with her book, even finding the remains of the post (snapped off but still embedded) which held up their original washing line and the metal rings used to anchor the radio mast.
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The site is littered with broken bits and pieces, these included :- spent ammo, paper shot gun cartridges, broken beer bottles, medicine bottles, roofing felt, wood, hinges, the remains of the stove, lots of window glass, coal, pottery, wire, electric cable, battery plates, bits of big earthen wear storage jars, dog harness buckles, shoe / boot soles, a bracket from a Seagull outboard motor, various unidentifiable bits of metal work, what looked to be radio parts and most exciting of all bits of broken gramophone records.
Everything was photographed and left on site, apart from the bits of gramophone record which I took and will try and find someone to help identify the songs for me.
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It was very noticeable how the growth of any plant life testified to the extreme conditions regularly experienced here.
NW behind our camp was a rocky hill which gave great views in all directions, including out to sea – in the day this was undoubtedly a well visited summit. Watkins would have been checking out conditions and looking for returning boats, planes or sled teams. For us this was a great site to observe and photograph the ice cap, icebergs in the fjord, and locate our route up onto the inland ice.
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We spent a day paddling into the head of the fjord to check out the original route used in 1930 to access the ice.
It was an amazing feeling looking up from the beach at the “gully route” and scree which was their start point for any trip inland. However for us at least the way up “Bugbear Bank” as it was affectionately named, is now impassable, as the ice has receded so much, leaving a huge rock moraine and boulder field.
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As a result the following day we paddled over to the far side of the fjord to investigate another area we thought might be more promising and one Watkins had used when travelling by dog sled to Isatoq.
Negotiating the colossal icebergs on route was a daunting prospect as we had previously witnessed huge collapses and seen the effect the resulting waves had had on other small bergs in the area – it was certainly not a place to linger.
Interestingly though, these very significant waves didn’t affect the landing site, and our kayaks, like Watkins boats and planes were safely sheltered by the buffer of rocks at dog island..
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Reaching the far side we managed to locate a gently sloping tongue of ice which gave us good access from a sandy beach onto the ice cap. We brought the kayaks up to a safe position and secured them with lines before changing from kayak to mountaineering gear.
It was good to explore the area, view and photograph it from the ice and although we didn’t gain any major height by mountaineering standards, it was a fantastic experience.
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At the last minute Stephen Spencer Chapman (Freddy S Chapman’s grandson) had been unable to join our expedition, However the family did provide a very unobtrusive plaque acknowledging the 1930 expedition team. We chose a good location overlooking the base site, protected from the elements and secured it to a flat, vertical piece of bed rock.
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One overriding memory from this trip was the silence of it all, which was only interrupted by the sound of the huge icebergs rumbling and collapsing behind our camp.
During several days of pottering about and taking photos, it was hard not to notice that the base site is now on a direct transatlantic air route – with several high altitude flights (too high to hear) going overhead every day. Ironic that the very reason Watkins came here was to gather weather information for PANAM Airlines.
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One day a local family out hunting stopped at the rock slabs for lunch, inviting us to join them for a meal of cooked seal meat and blubber.
This was a first for several of the team and quite a highlight too.
They were very interested in our kayaks and that we had come to such a remote place, like their ancestors, travelling by kayak – although they used the rocky look out to check on conditions and look for seals, they were completely unaware of the fact that the remains of the base site were there.
Freddy S Chapman’s account of the BAARE is called Northern Lights, so it was a fitting finale that we experienced several great displays of this phenomenon, not least on the final night before we paddled out.
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Our journey into Nativit and the BAARE base site felt like such an adventure, all the more so knowing the heritage associated with it and the feeling of being so isolated and “out there”. Remarkable to be again be following in the same steps and standing on ground that had been such a significant part of other people's lives during the 1930s. It's hard to put into words the feelings and emotions associated with this journey. At times you could hear a pin drop. The silence and peace of the place was inspiring and thought provoking. Frequent reflections into what life must have been like to live here during that time regularly crossed our minds. The drama associated with the enormous collapses of ice from the icebergs in the fjord entered our conscious and unconscious sleeping minds on a regularly basis due to their regular roar and thundering.
Martin Rickardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15761851870326720245noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4704919959192420197.post-85118777457468481662018-03-10T06:32:00.000-08:002018-03-10T06:32:02.913-08:00BAARE 2018<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMpw0IizVaKPKMcMU2eVyKvwUSGk62j0X1qSa5zCSg-LEY1RZw0xA73w0TcZ1Fdmi8JntZqtfuQplJG8UeH7Um5jovrOeHepmaSqb1ninWSe65XNggHjapAeFw5zfkFiUgFLYWVQ0ZEPun/s1600/P1040513.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMpw0IizVaKPKMcMU2eVyKvwUSGk62j0X1qSa5zCSg-LEY1RZw0xA73w0TcZ1Fdmi8JntZqtfuQplJG8UeH7Um5jovrOeHepmaSqb1ninWSe65XNggHjapAeFw5zfkFiUgFLYWVQ0ZEPun/s400/P1040513.JPG" width="400" height="300" data-original-width="1600" data-original-height="1200" /></a></div>
This summer, 2018, again has the potential to be another very exciting one.
A few of us have a personal project planned, where we hope to kayak F S Chapman's grandson, Stephen, into the original 1930/31 BAARE base camp.
Things are now gearing up to ship out extra equipment and kayaks for this adventure.
Very pleased and extremely humbled, that the Managers of the Gino Watkins Memorial Committee have nominated this expedition as the
A & J Simpson Expedition for 2018.
Martin Rickardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15761851870326720245noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4704919959192420197.post-2906382412014138602017-06-02T11:43:00.000-07:002019-01-05T12:15:37.729-08:00Lake Fjord 2016
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPNw8jgY7QoVj3p_GC0vJDH8w6lxgErbOaizl3jrmUO5mVcS5tathhrkcN3k6CbXroTcOgT1bxDpllDlBWCUULtDsrXp-srkBPxm5N1vBRoV8bE69R_p1tl0LLkSpI2FxUCe0HYS3-Xpq-/s1600/_DSC0882.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPNw8jgY7QoVj3p_GC0vJDH8w6lxgErbOaizl3jrmUO5mVcS5tathhrkcN3k6CbXroTcOgT1bxDpllDlBWCUULtDsrXp-srkBPxm5N1vBRoV8bE69R_p1tl0LLkSpI2FxUCe0HYS3-Xpq-/s320/_DSC0882.jpg" width="213" height="320" data-original-width="1067" data-original-height="1600" /></a></div>As time was limited and a weather window had opened we arranged for a boat drop of near the settlement of Sermiligaq. The coast between Tasiilaq and there was old ground to us and would take at least 3 long days to cover, so time saved now would give us more scope to sit out bad weather should it come later.
The ride out in two fast boats owned by local hunters was fantastic.
Greenland at its best, with clear blue cloudless skies and mirror calm, sparkling crystal seas.
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Our drop off was on some previously visited flat smooth rocks, where we could organise and pack our kayaks. Camping and the water supply was good, should we not be able to fit everything in our kayaks a secure food drop could be stashed for later pick up, as we intended paddling back this way to my base in Tasiilaq on our return.
When kayaking in Greenland, mileage, distance, effort, commitment, time until lunch, a landing or break stop are all measured in “Thumbs”. On average we paddle one thumb an hour.
With a fully loaded kayak a typical day where landings were numerous for rest breaks would involve perhaps a five or six thumb day. Our route into Lake Fjord however had limited opportunities for landing and finding camping sites at the end of the day and we knew we were in for some long days.
Pacing ourselves was important; paddling with a partner to chat with is an obvious technique to avoid fatigue and boredom. (I’m not sure boredom is the term applicable when kayaking in such a stunning environment, but you know what I mean) We also agreed to keep close together and raft up on the water for a 5 minute snack or comfort break every hour.
Daily progress was good and constant notes were added to the maps as we went. Any new potential landing sites or water sources would be useful information to have on the return trip.
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Usually when I guide commercial trips in this area we aim to have a team of 8. This allows for reasonable bear watch shifts during the night. However with just five of us this was not practical, especially as we would be more fatigued and require a good night’s sleep. In an attempt to safe guard ourselves, but perhaps as much as a psychological measure, we would set up trip wires around the campsite at the end of the evening. These were very sensitive and were often set off by the wind, fox’s or folk going out for a pee. Not ideal, but for sure better than nothing. We also carried two pump action saw off, 12 gauge shot guns, with solid slugs on the kayaks in specially made waterproof gun sleeves.
Depot Island was a major mile stone for us. James and I had been there before in 2014. Unfortunately on that occasion James had become ill and I had had to arrange his evacuation to hospital. As a result he had some serious ghosts to lay to rest. We knew the landing on Depot was poor and that the sea covered the small stony beach for much of the tide. However we landed perfectly on time and rushed to empty the kayaks, so we could haul them up onto safe ground. The first time I came here in 2002 there had been an old hunter’s cabin on the point – sadly this is now long gone, so we set up camp and spent the evening exploring the remains of some old turf houses and graves.
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The next day was foggy, very foggy. Paddling on the GPS was perhaps not essential, we could have managed. However we had a long day and didn’t want to waste any time going out of our way. Also there were a lot of huge icebergs guarding the route ahead and we didn’t want to increase the risk these posed us by being in the wrong place or in fact any place longer than we really had to. The island of Stor and the old settlement at Sartermit was our objective that evening, a long exhausting day, but with the prospect of a hunters cabin at the end of it to save time camping. Also a bear worry free night. Although rarely visited, this hut is still occasionally used in the winter by hunters. Unfortunately it was full of their rubbish and mess and the smaller original hut had for some reason been partly dismantled. I am not adverse to cleaning house before I move in, but on this occasion we were all too exhausted and elected to paddle on and find a nice clean campsite. Three hours later saw us back near the huts setting up the tents. It’s quite amazing how a section of coast can be impossible to land on, even from a kayak and have such a lack of camping potential. So a long hard day had just become even longer. (8 hrs + on the water) Not what we had wanted the day before our crux and longest day.
Stor Island to Lake Ford was in my mind the crux of our route and would involve a 9 hr day with no landings. About 6 hrs in we would have to pass the headland referred to as “Hells Corner”, if this proved impossible we would have to retrace our route. If it was negotiated we would then be committed to a not insignificant crossing of Nigartusuk Fjord, where winds can funnel out to sea, before reaching Ailsa island which marks the entrance to Tugtilik (Lake Fjord).
Conditions were clear, although once out of the shelter of Stor Island the sea became a little lumpy and kept us on our toes and caused us to worry of what might be in store later in the day.
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We landed on the point and were pleased to discover the cross still standing from 2010. After a suitable reflection and photo session we paddled up the left hand branch of the fjord to set up camp by the remains of Watkins base camp. We were lucky that the tide was high – I had completely overlooked how far it went out and ½ mile of mud would have been the last straw at this stage in the day. We had intended spending several days mooching about and exploring. It’s a pretty intimidating place though and we all recognised how exposed we were, and considering the conditions how it would be very easy to get stuck here for some time, if they changed. Or, if we went at the wrong time, how easy it would be to have a real epic or worse, trying to get back to Stor Island. So we made a plan and agreed to explore as much as we could that evening and then the next day, which could also be spent as a bit of a rest if folk needed too. Then at high tide (1600) that same day, we would launch and return while we still could in calm conditions. Initially exploring the remains of the hut site we found the foundations, timbers, stove pipes and tins, coal and general rubbish from the 1932 expedition. We were sure Gino and the team would not begrudge us a fire that evening after our long day, so carefully selected some of the more rotten wood for our fire.
The next day we managed to salvage the remains of the whale boat from the beach. (Although it is mentioned in the books, it’s never been confirmed that they took it back to Angmagssalik)
I knew it was there from my visit in 2010 and was keen to get it up onto higher ground where it would suffer less damage. John and Donna walked up and round the lake and discovered a number of old 45 g fuel drums, which can only have been placed there to re fuel the sea moth during the 1930/31 expedition.
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James and I started looking for my missing link, the carving on the rock done by a crew member of the Maagen. There was no sign of it anywhere. In desperation having re read the passage in the book, I said to James, “well, where would you carve my name if it was you” He shrugged and gestured halfheartedly to a slab of rock. As I glanced at it the sun caught the rock and there it was – so faint it was barely visible, we had found it.
Trouble was it was too faint to photograph. So again reasoning Gino wouldn’t mind we used some of the coal left from his base camp and highlighted the carving. We strongly believe no one would have seen this since 1932, other than when Riley and Rymill (by then old men) returned in 1982 by boat to mark the 50th year of Gino’s death. It would have been too faint to see if you didn’t know exactly where it was or were seriously hunting for it, as we were this summer.
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So it was a great success, we had reached the memorial cross, camped at and explored his base camp, rescued the remains of his boat from the storm boulders on the beach, discovered remains of old fuel drums at the lake, left there for the sea moth in 1931 and located the inscription on the rock slab behind the hut site – now we just had to get out and home safe.
It was a quiet team that launched and paddled off that afternoon on the 4 o’clock high tide. Everyone with their own thoughts of what would transpire during the next 9 hrs. Also thoughts of what had inspired them to come here in the first place, and thoughts of what it would have really been like, back in the day with no satellite phone, Epirb, Gortex drysuits or GPS. Quite humbling!
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The sea was pretty lumpy and the tide strong, but as the evening set in we were rewarded with a fantastic light and sun set, such as it is at this time of year. We only noticed how late it was when we started to get cold, by then it was midnight and we were back on the relative safe side, with “Hells Corner” far behind us, guarding a very special place, few ever venture into.
The next day was designated as a rest day and faff about with kit day. We were at a fantastic camp site at the head of the fjord, where huge icebergs go to die and the noise all day of breaking ice was a constant reminder (not that we needed one) of how insignificant we were. Heading back to Tasiilaq over the next 2 weeks was an adventure, but of little interest to others so I won’t go on about it here. However we stopped again at Deport Island, for old times’ sake and investigated several other areas mentioned in the various Watkins books.
All in all, another great summer.
So to plans for the future..... Geoff is off to Antarctica in Feb 2017 with Caffin and Edwards, on a mission to retrace some of the “Southern Lights” expedition. Donna is also going on a kayak trip to the Antarctic in 2017. I will be back in Greenland guiding three expeditions in 2017 during this time we plan to visit the 1930 BAARE base camp and recce a route onto the inland ice. In 2018 I am planning a sailing expedition from Shetland, going into Lake Fjord to recover the remains of the whale boat and then sail down to explore the 1930 / 31 base site and put a team up onto the glacier . It is hoped that James will accompany me on both adventures. As yet John has made no plans, but I am sure he will be back in the future.
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Martin Rickardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15761851870326720245noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4704919959192420197.post-12859458187530846212015-01-22T09:42:00.002-08:002019-01-05T12:23:56.221-08:00Angmagssalik area and beyond.....<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijs48HyrH506vH0byQqMhwGZocpV8EcrsDk1snywfMas67Pm3wnT1yTUGqP-zdLD9f0ccxCRY_XuQMSENFKLkxxOYdL48h01Am-f4FpzrW8uX7ORrhF-QkOQ0IkZygOiVjhBFMY0uKmjsz/s1600/18n.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijs48HyrH506vH0byQqMhwGZocpV8EcrsDk1snywfMas67Pm3wnT1yTUGqP-zdLD9f0ccxCRY_XuQMSENFKLkxxOYdL48h01Am-f4FpzrW8uX7ORrhF-QkOQ0IkZygOiVjhBFMY0uKmjsz/s320/18n.JPG" width="320" height="175" data-original-width="1135" data-original-height="622" /></a></div>
This past summer was another great kayaking season in East Greenland.
The weather and ice conditions were good allowing us to explore some new exciting areas.
Sermilik and Johan Peterson Fjords were relatively free of ice, as was the coast north of Sermiligaq towards Lake Fjord.
As usual all the folk were great, forming a strong team and we had some real adventures, pushing things as far as it was safe to do so.
Unfortunately we didn't reach Tugtilik (Lake Fjord) this time round, but already have plans afoot for 2016.
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This summers adventures (2015) will concentrate on the area south of Sermilik - down towards Isertoq and we hope to take in the DAARE base site at Nagtivit.
There is one place available for this coming summer and bookings already being taken for 2016....info@seakayakadventures.co.uk
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This picture is upside down - thats how calm it can be at times.Martin Rickardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15761851870326720245noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4704919959192420197.post-2026659491983870292013-06-30T01:34:00.000-07:002013-06-30T01:34:29.736-07:00Greenland dates for 2014Revised date options for 2014
Depart Iceland 18th July - returning to Iceland 31st July
Depart Iceland 31st July - returning to Iceland 13th August.Martin Rickardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15761851870326720245noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4704919959192420197.post-8921965528761513382013-03-17T05:30:00.000-07:002013-03-17T05:30:04.867-07:00Angmagssalik Ice Conditionshttp://www.dmi.dk/dmi/index/hav/satellitbilleder.htm
This web link will give you real time updates of the changing ice conditions in the Angmagssalik area.
Interesting to see how it changes as the spring sets in.
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLcLZKbPSCbUNCt1W_DsSUCer6oYTizMQfvVwBIKItRU9pNFK_fm7HmZGJ6irigQmnpbePjnyOq0OPH7LsPHXtkHZJp97HGDUe55gZyRyv3ci3L10BqICmP-T91VlA6WOwfUeqWmCeHLpT/s1600/20130316TERR.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLcLZKbPSCbUNCt1W_DsSUCer6oYTizMQfvVwBIKItRU9pNFK_fm7HmZGJ6irigQmnpbePjnyOq0OPH7LsPHXtkHZJp97HGDUe55gZyRyv3ci3L10BqICmP-T91VlA6WOwfUeqWmCeHLpT/s320/20130316TERR.jpg" /></a>Martin Rickardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15761851870326720245noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4704919959192420197.post-20119999240637941822013-03-16T09:07:00.000-07:002013-03-16T09:07:06.983-07:00Canada - Wilderness Canoe Trip
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjv3xddhgK0aVzIXqnO1aFUClbzCKIX2SUwGqGaU5LrMoKKgoPhyjeCo4hvL89t1k4iDpa8KUUD9YNrQRFWN2v5XZPCZ-XsyjgYJFYwCy1LcLVrnAo_NW_A4HQv0etbNad0HN7Ae3SI0Oct/s1600/Canoers.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjv3xddhgK0aVzIXqnO1aFUClbzCKIX2SUwGqGaU5LrMoKKgoPhyjeCo4hvL89t1k4iDpa8KUUD9YNrQRFWN2v5XZPCZ-XsyjgYJFYwCy1LcLVrnAo_NW_A4HQv0etbNad0HN7Ae3SI0Oct/s320/Canoers.jpg" /></a>
This October I will be running a 10 day Open boat wilderness trip in the Algonquin Park - South River Ontario.
Approx dates are 13th - 25th October 2013.
All gear and food will be provided - you just have to bring personals, waterproofs and a warm sleeping bag.
Experience Ontario's "Fall Colours" - We should get some good wild life and by October, no bugs..
Wolves are common in Algonquin and often heard at night - they do not present a threat.
Lots of history and trees, flat water lake travel with some portages between the lake systems.
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEin94lteVJTmOVniIIUiAuLuazMZE2c6pOnPmgOTO3MIxbaLlXy6Hd-Gk4ZbSrTiraoFAlmVU53QicO71XpEB4YvlCX5q1PIRds7StWer8Wk148PKq-GaksQVJdJkdP1FYoK6aGe1dwADrz/s1600/Paudash_Fall_Colours.JPG" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEin94lteVJTmOVniIIUiAuLuazMZE2c6pOnPmgOTO3MIxbaLlXy6Hd-Gk4ZbSrTiraoFAlmVU53QicO71XpEB4YvlCX5q1PIRds7StWer8Wk148PKq-GaksQVJdJkdP1FYoK6aGe1dwADrz/s320/Paudash_Fall_Colours.JPG" /></a>
Contact me for further information and price...Martin Rickardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15761851870326720245noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4704919959192420197.post-41386073002549316182013-03-09T10:33:00.002-08:002013-03-09T11:38:44.505-08:00Gearing up for Greenland 2013Well after last summers amazing adventures in the Angmagssalik region of east Greenland, we are once again gearing up and preparing for this season.
Two replacement kayaks (North Shore Polar HV and Rockpool GT) will soon be loaded with food and equipment and deposited at the docks ready for the end of March to start their very long journey, via Iceland, the west coast of Greenland, Aalborg in Denmark to then - hopefully - finally arrive intact in Tasiilaq at the beginning of July.
Last year the ice was kind to us and we have new routes planned, should the ice conditions allow.
Hopefully we will experience some more incredible whale sightings, like last year.
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDCy0lJ5VZimYauRbAPIEwd8zBE9dT7FEabBZyjNwz7FR_cbt6KwMeuExwwIffFewySPx7D0aWkBjukwrDzq-Kp3JYNMnv1-VeT0RydrsXf-3SERYdmviTatBy0abu7YxiqAG3DNp4gVuW/s1600/ice+berg.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDCy0lJ5VZimYauRbAPIEwd8zBE9dT7FEabBZyjNwz7FR_cbt6KwMeuExwwIffFewySPx7D0aWkBjukwrDzq-Kp3JYNMnv1-VeT0RydrsXf-3SERYdmviTatBy0abu7YxiqAG3DNp4gVuW/s320/ice+berg.jpg" /></a>
The inland ice cap is melting fast during the warmer summer months so open water at the head of Sermilik Fjord is now pretty much a thing of the past - fingers crossed though, we may again be lucky.
Once again trips this summer filled up very quickly and I am now fully booked.
Dates for 2014 have been posted on my website and places have already been taken.
If interested in a trip of a lifetime please contact me soon to save disappointment.Martin Rickardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15761851870326720245noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4704919959192420197.post-70919228056488493262011-09-12T12:37:00.000-07:002011-08-13T04:46:10.403-07:00East Greenland Kayak Project 2011 - Tasiilaq Kayak Club.<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9wKPooldB-Q4qAfBFxxji-jTBMeaGPp3_n9woLos3BHDprS9xsYGmvPg4u4Y8cGvh8eOLe9X_bo5NgW0bMrLLs-rROf6LKQhgtVZNUb2-2f1SaicfFhWCgg4MvNtxNY6aWaWJRNbPLga3/s1600/DSC04530.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9wKPooldB-Q4qAfBFxxji-jTBMeaGPp3_n9woLos3BHDprS9xsYGmvPg4u4Y8cGvh8eOLe9X_bo5NgW0bMrLLs-rROf6LKQhgtVZNUb2-2f1SaicfFhWCgg4MvNtxNY6aWaWJRNbPLga3/s320/DSC04530.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5638944413707127474" /></a>
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<br />This summer I teamed up with Susan, an old friend from 2004, who is a Danish kayak Instructor and used to live in Tasiilaq, together we ran a kayak workshop exclusively for local Greenlandic people living in Tasiilaq on the east coast of Greenland.
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<br />Nine people responded to the offer of some kayaking.
<br />Several had never sat in a kayak before, however a few had been out a couple of times.
<br />One chap was keen to consolidate his self taught skills and wanted to learn to roll, and eventually hopes to become a kayak tour guide for the local tourist office.
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<br />A father and son team, who were hunters, had a traditional style Greenlander kayak which we had sold when we left after the schools expedition in 2000 – this had been used to hunt many Narwhal and was decked out with hide deck lines and bone toggles and was paddled with a home made traditional Inuit paddle.
<br />Interestingly, thin rope had been taped to the front of the hull, along the water line, as this reduces wave noise when hunting.
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<br />There were also two females in the group which was great as kayaking traditionally was very much “the mans” role within the community.
<br />I estimate the ages within the group ranged from mid twenties to late fifties.
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<br /> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMqJA7Auuz79XF7uSSOOtyWf24Xrh5ReQgvW9fT0VpRKm8Hl-PdwGreZjyHPV5y9rNPO-BCVjVK8HlrIig2ymcZOM_avrJQQS9qUY_ajFXnUQLvVWRb3MGboDgp5YErJwVtJMhccchdBXU/s1600/DSCF2619.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMqJA7Auuz79XF7uSSOOtyWf24Xrh5ReQgvW9fT0VpRKm8Hl-PdwGreZjyHPV5y9rNPO-BCVjVK8HlrIig2ymcZOM_avrJQQS9qUY_ajFXnUQLvVWRb3MGboDgp5YErJwVtJMhccchdBXU/s320/DSCF2619.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5640284632284342034" /></a>
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<br />All were keen on perfecting their skills.
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<br />Only one Greenlandic person – Maria – spoke any English and several of the group didn’t speak Danish.
<br />As I don’t speak Danish and my Greenlandic is very limited the sessions were introduced using mime, lots of dry land demonstrations and reference to picture books.
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<br />Initial instruction was done on land with demonstrations of rescues – everyone then copied these, much to the amusement of local bystanders.
<br />At first I thought these were too boring for them and that they didn’t understand, however they were all just concentrating very hard and once it was their turn everyone had a great laugh, crawling about in the grass pretending to swim - which really set the scene for the following days.
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<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiF66KZXNFtQFGOAI6GR7kkhnMuH0LkRL7PVcFHLXqIIhfLrlGVg4GtjYHhnj3kx1V8pqP5WqelKiDHysuA7Xu0Tp-MWlEERCTaJawqGnx2WaY9J1H05LkIxn0ohbl2M_Xc8xXAw3Vd-Mop/s1600/DSCF2539.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiF66KZXNFtQFGOAI6GR7kkhnMuH0LkRL7PVcFHLXqIIhfLrlGVg4GtjYHhnj3kx1V8pqP5WqelKiDHysuA7Xu0Tp-MWlEERCTaJawqGnx2WaY9J1H05LkIxn0ohbl2M_Xc8xXAw3Vd-Mop/s320/DSCF2539.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5640298197188372018" /></a>
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<br />Picture books to help explain
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<br />Once on the water the group were very enthusiastic about perfecting their rescues, and then later both the types of Eskimo rescue.
<br />Although wearing wetsuits and kayak gear the water was obviously very cold and as many pre – dry run demonstrations were done as possible.
<br />This felt very strange to me and not something I have ever had to do, to this level, before.
<br />It worked well though and once on the water they all through themselves into their practice.
<br />In fact it was always hard getting them to go out and have a proper paddle in the fjord as they much preferred practicing the safety drills and rescues – and like a group of youngsters you couldn’t get them out of the water and at the end of each day they always ended up swimming and messing about in the harbour.
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<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgn3DMcByndvviCBeyst1wqjQRa-zro9GoFJauTmtT3RNhJnxMLaqKXpYqCq6cVADXFmevVPSaOHLk61K_wxtuUPMuKPyjrAKnmeeKeNOiMVBwRH2aLdbAm6UXAUjVYlraQz843eW4v8pLd/s1600/DSCF2542.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgn3DMcByndvviCBeyst1wqjQRa-zro9GoFJauTmtT3RNhJnxMLaqKXpYqCq6cVADXFmevVPSaOHLk61K_wxtuUPMuKPyjrAKnmeeKeNOiMVBwRH2aLdbAm6UXAUjVYlraQz843eW4v8pLd/s320/DSCF2542.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5640286354457170114" /></a>
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<br />The Narwhal hunter – deep in thought.
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<br />During the training they were able to cover a wide range of paddling skills.
<br />Equipment, safety, group rescues, Eskimo rescues, self rescues with paddle floats, re entry and rolls with floats, towing, rough landings, ice landings and group awareness / leadership.
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<br />Living close to the sea they already have a good appreciation of the weather and the changeable sea / ice conditions and I am confident they can safely relate this to the kayaking environment.
<br />On the final day I am pleased to say after much practice all but the two girls were able to fully Eskimo Roll.
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<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEga9ya8l5ixIU2l_2bfXJTuQQbAiFkvXObd1mYs9DzHf6R7Qg2Gk6XvQBJVyaRc5RcxldsNar_tgfUdbdR6v7MrX6yDO1lv5cqmmEgA-Jndr_uCKD0K7OAtrmTwEW-o-irE0eUWQTg8eD2c/s1600/DSCF2560.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEga9ya8l5ixIU2l_2bfXJTuQQbAiFkvXObd1mYs9DzHf6R7Qg2Gk6XvQBJVyaRc5RcxldsNar_tgfUdbdR6v7MrX6yDO1lv5cqmmEgA-Jndr_uCKD0K7OAtrmTwEW-o-irE0eUWQTg8eD2c/s320/DSCF2560.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5640288641879435794" /></a>
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<br /> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGTweIPeD3iVuYqDAlsfQLAvZ-tSGnpNA-aScRbBp9OiyZPAhMK58fLa0EXOmFpE5X4hiSD7sml5j5yDti7_LObArCr6crWQWh61RI5u2RzptHJAPHEBJzYZo6hC2qPd3F_ySz4RKjMuVo/s1600/DSCF2579.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGTweIPeD3iVuYqDAlsfQLAvZ-tSGnpNA-aScRbBp9OiyZPAhMK58fLa0EXOmFpE5X4hiSD7sml5j5yDti7_LObArCr6crWQWh61RI5u2RzptHJAPHEBJzYZo6hC2qPd3F_ySz4RKjMuVo/s320/DSCF2579.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5640294748664940514" /></a>
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<br />Unfortunately for the girls this was largely due to the fact that the kayaks were too big for them and it was difficult for them to wedge themselves into them – also by then Maria was suffering from sore ears and had pulled out of the training..
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<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhM8InbiRz6zOtCobekhd91m65qUSjYrTYEMbD9cAskSsUmsmhrvdXexxhAIbHPbRpEqbVZ2MX2uotF1HhDOM2wtKV1UjGaIoVAVJE08Su6Dpjuya64fJHXZ_MXRE5HWNK7SH3GGcTHQbff/s1600/DSCF2617.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhM8InbiRz6zOtCobekhd91m65qUSjYrTYEMbD9cAskSsUmsmhrvdXexxhAIbHPbRpEqbVZ2MX2uotF1HhDOM2wtKV1UjGaIoVAVJE08Su6Dpjuya64fJHXZ_MXRE5HWNK7SH3GGcTHQbff/s320/DSCF2617.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5640289490376143746" /></a>
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<br />It was a real privilege to have been able to have worked so closely with these people who had such an interest and commitment to learning these kayak skills.
<br />They do have a raw talent and I am sure picked things up much quicker than many folk I have introduced in the past.
<br />Kayaking with them enabled me, despite our lack of common language to feel we had really connected – and I had made some good friends.
<br />Certainly they appreciated the opportunity and the time I spent with them and it was quite an emotional parting.
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<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-DXqYsaBd1nSnxn6_6H4GflLW-ylMvEBQqvpoHqKgwMaq5aeghGikzIBCNB52LJ2kQHysoCXYOsO_0T9eTxnnHrBmh87vKrJ4dV5mj_5bzH5wYQbq2FNPGgVMk0_RIC7gVsxkUxWhpGeY/s1600/DSCF2547.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-DXqYsaBd1nSnxn6_6H4GflLW-ylMvEBQqvpoHqKgwMaq5aeghGikzIBCNB52LJ2kQHysoCXYOsO_0T9eTxnnHrBmh87vKrJ4dV5mj_5bzH5wYQbq2FNPGgVMk0_RIC7gVsxkUxWhpGeY/s320/DSCF2547.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5640290275839561282" /></a>
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<br />Paddles on the east coast,traditionaly were tipped with ivory to protect from ice.
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<br />As a result of this workshop several of the group have now joined the kayak club, joining with their peers will also help encourage others to take part.
<br />The group was very motivated and at the end able to self teach and support one another, so I am confident they will spend the rest of the summer safely consolidating their new skills.
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<br />Next summer I again plan to spend some time with folk from this group and offer some further support – Lars, the young hunter with his fathers kayak is keen to take me hunting, should the opportunity arise.
<br />Kristina – a young mum, has set herself the challenge of gaining suitable skills and experience, so she can safely paddle from Tasiilaq to visit her relatives in Isortoq.
<br />This for her would be a journey of several days – being aware of the risk, she has already spoken with her uncle who will, when she is ready, accompany her in a support boat.
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<br />Many thanks to the Gino Watkins Memorial Trust for their support with this project.
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<br />Martin Rickardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15761851870326720245noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4704919959192420197.post-20816232088940888762011-08-12T08:57:00.000-07:002011-10-05T10:19:44.605-07:00Returning Greenland Expeditions 2011.<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhS4O4nEcpgew2QBpirsZv98V9kkeV_YRju0AZbuH8kDfcN30Th6ztAOZdQ07-7GN2db39nuvfhnbaGLQwmuJcfekwQ04ONNpSVZ53rXjNoARon4KzN4p4Ggoq7vChA_tlXG02iOAGxQHwa/s1600/greenland+photo%2527s+2008+062.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhS4O4nEcpgew2QBpirsZv98V9kkeV_YRju0AZbuH8kDfcN30Th6ztAOZdQ07-7GN2db39nuvfhnbaGLQwmuJcfekwQ04ONNpSVZ53rXjNoARon4KzN4p4Ggoq7vChA_tlXG02iOAGxQHwa/s320/greenland+photo%2527s+2008+062.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5640253996313915762" /></a><br /><br /><br />Well what a fantastic summer we had in Greenland – the ice this year was so thick it was initially like paddling in the Antarctic. <br />A huge belt of polar ice had drifted down the east coast and just as we arrived was blown into the fjord system, blocking Tasiilaq harbour for 5 days, which prevented the local supply boat and hunters from travelling. <br />All the settlements were completely cut off and several other groups were stranded missing flights and boat connections.<br />Fortunately I managed to get us all on the last boat from Kulusuk to Tasiilaq and we eventually arrived in the harbour at 2.30 in the morning, having spent 6 hours battling the ice.<br />I knew the ice conditions could change rapidly, however after several days wait we were contemplating having to switch to a hiking trip.<br />Our patience was finally rewarded and we escaped from the fjord one very misty day, paddling through thick ice in the fog to establish our first proper camp of the journey at an old Inuit Whaling site. <br />It can always be a problem when you have a keen group who are new to the area as their initial inexperience tempts them to paddle when I might consider conditions to be unsuitable – on this trip however, it was very obvious which days would be spent exploring on land. Every one was very aware of this and happy to be seeing it in such amazing conditions. <br />Progress however was made and we had a great time exploring several areas I had previously been unable to visit and we always found enough drift wood to have a fine camp fire and enjoyed a wee dram at the end of the day.<br />It was not possible to return to Tasiilaq as planned – infact the last couple of days were a struggle just getting back to Kulusuk in time for the flights home and on one occasion we all had to get out and drag our kayaks over several large flat pans of ice, jumping the gaps and continuing to the edge and open water. <br /><br />I get weather updates through my Sat phone and knew we were in for a big blow – this came as expected and we just made it to a great hut in time to spend the next 2 days reading and festering in its relative comfort, as a full gale ragged outside.<br />I was paranoid that although lashed down the kayaks would be blown away – on inspection they were so full of rain water I knew they were not going anywhere and so was able to relax until it was time to move on. <br />A great paddle though the channel of Ikasak, which was almost impassable with ice brought us back out to Ege in the Ammassalik Fjord. Conditions and the weather continued to steadily improve as we started to make our way back to Tasiilaq.<br />We had experienced it all – impassable ice, thick ice, sun, rain, gales, mirror calm conditions, crystal clear waters and some fantastic wilderness campsites.<br /><br />After everyone had returned home I serviced all the kayaks and equipment, ready for 2012 and then spent some time working with local Greenlandic people from Tasiilaq who were keen to experience some kayaking.Martin Rickardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15761851870326720245noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4704919959192420197.post-48878540639982295012011-05-21T12:41:00.000-07:002011-10-05T10:16:04.236-07:00<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAcmhQNwd-oZW1kpAM6lLDpYdsYyT13-FyK6AzUPg27AbTNvUluweVly_6bfCAyk6XnYl_QmOzccglJw_w4b5G8E992t9tFbkCsW91BFaiUTt_QN-Cg4NfxmiYeB3QMT0_SGGBs4QoBWl0/s1600/Final+Flag+logo.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAcmhQNwd-oZW1kpAM6lLDpYdsYyT13-FyK6AzUPg27AbTNvUluweVly_6bfCAyk6XnYl_QmOzccglJw_w4b5G8E992t9tFbkCsW91BFaiUTt_QN-Cg4NfxmiYeB3QMT0_SGGBs4QoBWl0/s320/Final+Flag+logo.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5609260993207793986" /></a><br />The trip going out to Greenland this summer is full and folk are now well on the way through their final preparations - thick sea ice still along the coast from the winter will present us with some challenging and exciting conditions.<br />The late departure of the sea ice will increase our chance of a polar bear encounter and it is likely that we will have to adopt a waking watch system - taking it in turns to keep an eye open, while the others get some sleep.<br />The Johanna Christina (local supply boat) has been booked for a kayak drop off in Kuummiut should the ice delay or departure from Tasiilaq.<br /><br /><br />There are places available on the final trip in August this summer - although at this stage it is unlikely anyone will sign up before I depart for Greenland on the 29th June.<br />Trips in 2012 are scheduled and several places are already booked up - these should be full and the trips closed by December 2011 - otherwise the flights go up and consequently bump up the trip costings. If interested get in touch soon.Martin Rickardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15761851870326720245noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4704919959192420197.post-62585951544345018302010-10-12T11:29:00.000-07:002010-10-12T11:39:04.622-07:00Greenland Ice<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8GEDf7POnVy4r9jG5TEHd44dCeu80E4PpQHA_69kf2ox0_nGPz3bya6YN7jloATcztIpjPOpotplFohptvR8RlVni4WhF_SbyQL5zWKbJHlNBkTFcTTfGHs1Z5eXip9cp8G5zeT58WPTW/s1600/017-1.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8GEDf7POnVy4r9jG5TEHd44dCeu80E4PpQHA_69kf2ox0_nGPz3bya6YN7jloATcztIpjPOpotplFohptvR8RlVni4WhF_SbyQL5zWKbJHlNBkTFcTTfGHs1Z5eXip9cp8G5zeT58WPTW/s320/017-1.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5527230117360246994" /></a><br /><br />This link shows you the extent of last summers ice on the east coast of Greenland in June. This is at its worst or best depending on your point of view - just a bit too much for paddling though.<br /><br />http://www.dailymotion.com/video/xf5dnj_exploration-des-dernieres-banquises_sportMartin Rickardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15761851870326720245noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4704919959192420197.post-40561069355973151572010-10-02T01:44:00.000-07:002010-10-03T10:35:21.364-07:00Greenland Dates for 2011<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiN3s5BNFzmNLh95ozkWEGgv3ZgWTPe1KixOXXEihd5HgjDR7GCN4EIWst5Uz8LTlz4dQn7TNNoUzCiWyLdIh6n7-xcO99RAqjwGN4k1TquWo6Pm0rjv3j4FJp-p55QwpmYUEDLjmAaWd1A/s1600/100.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 156px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiN3s5BNFzmNLh95ozkWEGgv3ZgWTPe1KixOXXEihd5HgjDR7GCN4EIWst5Uz8LTlz4dQn7TNNoUzCiWyLdIh6n7-xcO99RAqjwGN4k1TquWo6Pm0rjv3j4FJp-p55QwpmYUEDLjmAaWd1A/s320/100.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5523370932060676082" /></a><br /><br /><br />The dates have now been set for next summers trips - as usual they are filling up fast.<br /><br />Trip # 1 - July 2nd - 15th (only two places left)<br />Trip # 2 - July 16th - 29th (two places available)<br />Trip # 3 - July 30th - 12th August.<br /><br />The cost for 2011 is £ 1850.Martin Rickardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15761851870326720245noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4704919959192420197.post-33739622053922884712010-09-26T12:15:00.000-07:002010-09-26T12:27:13.698-07:00Marks reflections - Greenland 2010<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-KdrL4YXArsHWZZn1g20yfIj5hLvGLTa6caIowBK5-zWXEiBI3xornZAzocZm-Pc89XnhT-m7t4JNgVqNXI7f_360gRolgqj23P0JPXE6nIT-9DKg9MI5XZKuwJcbj8oiyjv-4vLDY06R/s1600/Greenland+-+170.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-KdrL4YXArsHWZZn1g20yfIj5hLvGLTa6caIowBK5-zWXEiBI3xornZAzocZm-Pc89XnhT-m7t4JNgVqNXI7f_360gRolgqj23P0JPXE6nIT-9DKg9MI5XZKuwJcbj8oiyjv-4vLDY06R/s400/Greenland+-+170.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5521303715345157682" /></a><br /><br /><br /><a href="http://marktozer.blogspot.com/2010/08/greenland-2010-reflections.html">http://marktozer.blogspot.com/2010/08/greenland-2010-reflections.html</a><br /><a href="http://marktozer.blogspot.com/2010/08/greenland-2010-reflections.html"></a>Martin Rickardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15761851870326720245noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4704919959192420197.post-47048023662915860172010-09-23T15:08:00.000-07:002010-09-23T15:30:05.130-07:00Chris and Barbara - Greenland 2010<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaSQVK0plrrYOknNRVmoxr3Ly-2oopKMj12HUMMFMb53haVFjzAvSkVbZRjDdd-zST9rQNZubp0UeP-jBFYrNiDSfT1ahVDR1nQSLYZZmp7qbq00ADLLorYgGHl5AREUjZ0JbEzFBYysg7/s1600/IMG_2101.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 235px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaSQVK0plrrYOknNRVmoxr3Ly-2oopKMj12HUMMFMb53haVFjzAvSkVbZRjDdd-zST9rQNZubp0UeP-jBFYrNiDSfT1ahVDR1nQSLYZZmp7qbq00ADLLorYgGHl5AREUjZ0JbEzFBYysg7/s320/IMG_2101.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5520238495947755890" /></a><br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFjOluJ2Ak-taGoKhtjwk2jNRn483S_BzEfTRhiRoVQvOnbiDq5BERIMAUTXxeCZlVpOIdeUrUUflW81ATMTyoLmCALAmhagjCavdMDX1Xq08EayaQth_uMgbu0-EhMxStjxNurFIGOk45/s1600/IMG_2211.JPG"><img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 240px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFjOluJ2Ak-taGoKhtjwk2jNRn483S_BzEfTRhiRoVQvOnbiDq5BERIMAUTXxeCZlVpOIdeUrUUflW81ATMTyoLmCALAmhagjCavdMDX1Xq08EayaQth_uMgbu0-EhMxStjxNurFIGOk45/s320/IMG_2211.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5520234844706640946" /></a><br />One particularly foul winter evening, with rain lashing the windows of our house in Scotland, I raised the subject of having a really good summer paddling holiday – treating ourselves to something special – a “once in a lifetime” trip.<br /><br />We had a list of what we wanted … and what we didn’t ….<br /><br />We wanted to see the remote east coast of Greenland.<br />We wanted the use of good quality boats and kit.<br />We wanted to maximise our time by having a knowledgeable guide for the area.<br />We wanted to know that our safety and enjoyment were priorities.<br />We wanted to feel that we had a say in the trip planning.<br />We didn’t want to be led by the hand.<br />We didn’t want to feel that covering miles was the main objective.<br />We wanted to feel like we were getting value for money.<br />…… oh, and we wanted to see icebergs … lots of icebergs!!!<br /><br />And so, in the summer 2010, we found ourselves having a fantastic time, paddling from Ammassilik with Martin and a very friendly group of other punters.<br /><br />We were pleasantly surprised by how well looked after the boats and other equipment had been … I paddled an NDK Explorer and enjoyed the novelty of dry gear in all the hatches … something I’ve never known before!<br /><br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXTWqYj3kSxvFQ-_lh7cSk6_MORbNeJ224_7oMF7hMbCleV_oNBdznZbTpRmC9IrdvCFt_sOj_0kwXK9XE5CdLTBgjlImrj3pMtStOmzy0yubOCDfKqu36BaJ4apU0psDaft950OG6-o5H/s1600/IMG_1299.JPG"><img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 168px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXTWqYj3kSxvFQ-_lh7cSk6_MORbNeJ224_7oMF7hMbCleV_oNBdznZbTpRmC9IrdvCFt_sOj_0kwXK9XE5CdLTBgjlImrj3pMtStOmzy0yubOCDfKqu36BaJ4apU0psDaft950OG6-o5H/s320/IMG_1299.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5520235633290779618" /></a><br /><br />We were immediately comfortable with Martin’s leadership style – never dictatorial or in-your-face; he would give us all the information he had, put forward a few suggested options and then we, as a group, made the decisions on where to go, how quickly and where to stop for the night.<br /><br />We deviated from this once – and that was when Martin decided that conditions were not safe for continuing with the original plan – based on his considerable experience of the ice and how quickly things can change out there. <br /><br />During our journey, we explored several abandoned settlements, went for walks up into the hills and discovered old graves and mysteriously arranged stones. We were taken with Martin’s knowledge of the area and his obvious love and enthusiasm for this corner of the world. It was clear that he enjoyed sharing these with us.<br /><br />We felt that we got a huge amount out of our time in Greenland and very definitely satisfied our value for money criterion …. and our iceberg spotting requirements!<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEif4lt5Xdp21aFsEf2dghy5xUOLFw9WTJnUeAnz8vLfFPHtCi2K7LpeMnY4t-rAEEKI2xjbXotZiTYy08cyBbFK8SoTwQXD-T8MJcd2YWTXMz5pf7PaqmFXHK61UPTEgQjh2f9ClqkZt56-/s1600/Greenland+-+175.jpg"><img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEif4lt5Xdp21aFsEf2dghy5xUOLFw9WTJnUeAnz8vLfFPHtCi2K7LpeMnY4t-rAEEKI2xjbXotZiTYy08cyBbFK8SoTwQXD-T8MJcd2YWTXMz5pf7PaqmFXHK61UPTEgQjh2f9ClqkZt56-/s320/Greenland+-+175.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5520237064167056994" /></a><br />Perhaps the best way to sum up this trip is that we had always considered it a one-off “trip of a lifetime” type of thing… but that’s completely gone out of the window! <br />We’re already making plans to go again – and won’t have to think twice about which operator to use!! <br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPfKdbQfgL7BkVFhYyQsQy1_ScZIw-q9FZKC4624uPLhUIc5vs4psvGTyRB-REDnYclN-1MWBU2W44AGSUj9z2nwIdHddBn-FQHagWPg1yY23Hc8f2ON7fefQMm7JQxHiftmuLHccUJ0tv/s1600/IMG_1991.JPG"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 150px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPfKdbQfgL7BkVFhYyQsQy1_ScZIw-q9FZKC4624uPLhUIc5vs4psvGTyRB-REDnYclN-1MWBU2W44AGSUj9z2nwIdHddBn-FQHagWPg1yY23Hc8f2ON7fefQMm7JQxHiftmuLHccUJ0tv/s320/IMG_1991.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5520239342209487378" /></a><br /><br />If you’re wanting a really marvellous experience in one of the few truly wild places left in the world …. sign up for one of these trips … we promise you won’t regret it!<br /><br /><br />Chris and BarbaraMartin Rickardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15761851870326720245noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4704919959192420197.post-13028557596462270302010-09-16T12:16:00.000-07:002010-09-16T12:25:08.468-07:00<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhO4m8XrbpFXtdPAg0w4z7xUazguTXwdkMsKps8RMYSvzfbIOW2JSNBpEMSa-igpqrNSJGDThyRYDJzZAd3sNZzJjMvi3EPDh3kqVIxdxk2ReI28nVrWLwafq5C-UFidX15bkJm3vkp-b6/s1600/IMG_1874.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 218px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhO4m8XrbpFXtdPAg0w4z7xUazguTXwdkMsKps8RMYSvzfbIOW2JSNBpEMSa-igpqrNSJGDThyRYDJzZAd3sNZzJjMvi3EPDh3kqVIxdxk2ReI28nVrWLwafq5C-UFidX15bkJm3vkp-b6/s320/IMG_1874.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5517594111867511634" /></a><br />Cut and paste this link, which takes you to our Greenland 2010 video.<br /> <br />http://www.vimeo.com/15014672Martin Rickardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15761851870326720245noreply@blogger.com