East Greenland Kayak Project 2011 - Tasiilaq Kayak Club.




This summer I teamed up with Susan, an old friend from 2004, who is a Danish kayak Instructor and used to live in Tasiilaq, together we ran a kayak workshop exclusively for local Greenlandic people living in Tasiilaq on the east coast of Greenland.

Nine people responded to the offer of some kayaking.
Several had never sat in a kayak before, however a few had been out a couple of times.
One chap was keen to consolidate his self taught skills and wanted to learn to roll, and eventually hopes to become a kayak tour guide for the local tourist office.

A father and son team, who were hunters, had a traditional style Greenlander kayak which we had sold when we left after the schools expedition in 2000 – this had been used to hunt many Narwhal and was decked out with hide deck lines and bone toggles and was paddled with a home made traditional Inuit paddle.
Interestingly, thin rope had been taped to the front of the hull, along the water line, as this reduces wave noise when hunting.





There were also two females in the group which was great as kayaking traditionally was very much “the mans” role within the community.
I estimate the ages within the group ranged from mid twenties to late fifties.




All were keen on perfecting their skills.





Only one Greenlandic person – Maria – spoke any English and several of the group didn’t speak Danish.
As I don’t speak Danish and my Greenlandic is very limited the sessions were introduced using mime, lots of dry land demonstrations and reference to picture books.

Initial instruction was done on land with demonstrations of rescues – everyone then copied these, much to the amusement of local bystanders.
At first I thought these were too boring for them and that they didn’t understand, however they were all just concentrating very hard and once it was their turn everyone had a great laugh, crawling about in the grass pretending to swim - which really set the scene for the following days.




Picture books to help explain

Once on the water the group were very enthusiastic about perfecting their rescues, and then later both the types of Eskimo rescue.
Although wearing wetsuits and kayak gear the water was obviously very cold and as many pre – dry run demonstrations were done as possible.
This felt very strange to me and not something I have ever had to do, to this level, before.
It worked well though and once on the water they all through themselves into their practice.
In fact it was always hard getting them to go out and have a proper paddle in the fjord as they much preferred practicing the safety drills and rescues – and like a group of youngsters you couldn’t get them out of the water and at the end of each day they always ended up swimming and messing about in the harbour.




The Narwhal hunter – deep in thought.


During the training they were able to cover a wide range of paddling skills.
Equipment, safety, group rescues, Eskimo rescues, self rescues with paddle floats, re entry and rolls with floats, towing, rough landings, ice landings and group awareness / leadership.

Living close to the sea they already have a good appreciation of the weather and the changeable sea / ice conditions and I am confident they can safely relate this to the kayaking environment.
On the final day I am pleased to say after much practice all but the two girls were able to fully Eskimo Roll.





Unfortunately for the girls this was largely due to the fact that the kayaks were too big for them and it was difficult for them to wedge themselves into them – also by then Maria was suffering from sore ears and had pulled out of the training..




It was a real privilege to have been able to have worked so closely with these people who had such an interest and commitment to learning these kayak skills.
They do have a raw talent and I am sure picked things up much quicker than many folk I have introduced in the past.
Kayaking with them enabled me, despite our lack of common language to feel we had really connected – and I had made some good friends.
Certainly they appreciated the opportunity and the time I spent with them and it was quite an emotional parting.



Paddles on the east coast,traditionaly were tipped with ivory to protect from ice.

As a result of this workshop several of the group have now joined the kayak club, joining with their peers will also help encourage others to take part.
The group was very motivated and at the end able to self teach and support one another, so I am confident they will spend the rest of the summer safely consolidating their new skills.

Next summer I again plan to spend some time with folk from this group and offer some further support – Lars, the young hunter with his fathers kayak is keen to take me hunting, should the opportunity arise.
Kristina – a young mum, has set herself the challenge of gaining suitable skills and experience, so she can safely paddle from Tasiilaq to visit her relatives in Isortoq.
This for her would be a journey of several days – being aware of the risk, she has already spoken with her uncle who will, when she is ready, accompany her in a support boat.

Many thanks to the Gino Watkins Memorial Trust for their support with this project.


Returning Greenland Expeditions 2011.




Well what a fantastic summer we had in Greenland – the ice this year was so thick it was initially like paddling in the Antarctic.
A huge belt of polar ice had drifted down the east coast and just as we arrived was blown into the fjord system, blocking Tasiilaq harbour for 5 days, which prevented the local supply boat and hunters from travelling.
All the settlements were completely cut off and several other groups were stranded missing flights and boat connections.
Fortunately I managed to get us all on the last boat from Kulusuk to Tasiilaq and we eventually arrived in the harbour at 2.30 in the morning, having spent 6 hours battling the ice.
I knew the ice conditions could change rapidly, however after several days wait we were contemplating having to switch to a hiking trip.
Our patience was finally rewarded and we escaped from the fjord one very misty day, paddling through thick ice in the fog to establish our first proper camp of the journey at an old Inuit Whaling site.
It can always be a problem when you have a keen group who are new to the area as their initial inexperience tempts them to paddle when I might consider conditions to be unsuitable – on this trip however, it was very obvious which days would be spent exploring on land. Every one was very aware of this and happy to be seeing it in such amazing conditions.
Progress however was made and we had a great time exploring several areas I had previously been unable to visit and we always found enough drift wood to have a fine camp fire and enjoyed a wee dram at the end of the day.
It was not possible to return to Tasiilaq as planned – infact the last couple of days were a struggle just getting back to Kulusuk in time for the flights home and on one occasion we all had to get out and drag our kayaks over several large flat pans of ice, jumping the gaps and continuing to the edge and open water.

I get weather updates through my Sat phone and knew we were in for a big blow – this came as expected and we just made it to a great hut in time to spend the next 2 days reading and festering in its relative comfort, as a full gale ragged outside.
I was paranoid that although lashed down the kayaks would be blown away – on inspection they were so full of rain water I knew they were not going anywhere and so was able to relax until it was time to move on.
A great paddle though the channel of Ikasak, which was almost impassable with ice brought us back out to Ege in the Ammassalik Fjord. Conditions and the weather continued to steadily improve as we started to make our way back to Tasiilaq.
We had experienced it all – impassable ice, thick ice, sun, rain, gales, mirror calm conditions, crystal clear waters and some fantastic wilderness campsites.

After everyone had returned home I serviced all the kayaks and equipment, ready for 2012 and then spent some time working with local Greenlandic people from Tasiilaq who were keen to experience some kayaking.

The trip going out to Greenland this summer is full and folk are now well on the way through their final preparations - thick sea ice still along the coast from the winter will present us with some challenging and exciting conditions.
The late departure of the sea ice will increase our chance of a polar bear encounter and it is likely that we will have to adopt a waking watch system - taking it in turns to keep an eye open, while the others get some sleep.
The Johanna Christina (local supply boat) has been booked for a kayak drop off in Kuummiut should the ice delay or departure from Tasiilaq.


There are places available on the final trip in August this summer - although at this stage it is unlikely anyone will sign up before I depart for Greenland on the 29th June.
Trips in 2012 are scheduled and several places are already booked up - these should be full and the trips closed by December 2011 - otherwise the flights go up and consequently bump up the trip costings. If interested get in touch soon.

Greenland Ice



This link shows you the extent of last summers ice on the east coast of Greenland in June. This is at its worst or best depending on your point of view - just a bit too much for paddling though.

http://www.dailymotion.com/video/xf5dnj_exploration-des-dernieres-banquises_sport

Greenland Dates for 2011




The dates have now been set for next summers trips - as usual they are filling up fast.

Trip # 1 - July 2nd - 15th (only two places left)
Trip # 2 - July 16th - 29th (two places available)
Trip # 3 - July 30th - 12th August.

The cost for 2011 is £ 1850.

Chris and Barbara - Greenland 2010




One particularly foul winter evening, with rain lashing the windows of our house in Scotland, I raised the subject of having a really good summer paddling holiday – treating ourselves to something special – a “once in a lifetime” trip.

We had a list of what we wanted … and what we didn’t ….

We wanted to see the remote east coast of Greenland.
We wanted the use of good quality boats and kit.
We wanted to maximise our time by having a knowledgeable guide for the area.
We wanted to know that our safety and enjoyment were priorities.
We wanted to feel that we had a say in the trip planning.
We didn’t want to be led by the hand.
We didn’t want to feel that covering miles was the main objective.
We wanted to feel like we were getting value for money.
…… oh, and we wanted to see icebergs … lots of icebergs!!!

And so, in the summer 2010, we found ourselves having a fantastic time, paddling from Ammassilik with Martin and a very friendly group of other punters.

We were pleasantly surprised by how well looked after the boats and other equipment had been … I paddled an NDK Explorer and enjoyed the novelty of dry gear in all the hatches … something I’ve never known before!




We were immediately comfortable with Martin’s leadership style – never dictatorial or in-your-face; he would give us all the information he had, put forward a few suggested options and then we, as a group, made the decisions on where to go, how quickly and where to stop for the night.

We deviated from this once – and that was when Martin decided that conditions were not safe for continuing with the original plan – based on his considerable experience of the ice and how quickly things can change out there.

During our journey, we explored several abandoned settlements, went for walks up into the hills and discovered old graves and mysteriously arranged stones. We were taken with Martin’s knowledge of the area and his obvious love and enthusiasm for this corner of the world. It was clear that he enjoyed sharing these with us.

We felt that we got a huge amount out of our time in Greenland and very definitely satisfied our value for money criterion …. and our iceberg spotting requirements!


Perhaps the best way to sum up this trip is that we had always considered it a one-off “trip of a lifetime” type of thing… but that’s completely gone out of the window!
We’re already making plans to go again – and won’t have to think twice about which operator to use!!



If you’re wanting a really marvellous experience in one of the few truly wild places left in the world …. sign up for one of these trips … we promise you won’t regret it!


Chris and Barbara